“Fashion trends in chaps are often overlooked. However, chaps do not have to look alike or be boring in appearance,” says, Valerie Heydinger of Showing Style by Valerie, who makes chaps as well as show clothes. “There are a variety of ways to personalize chaps to make them unique and fashionable.”
Let’s start with the leather. Heydinger states, “The quality of the top grain makes all the difference in the world for the look, fit, and longevity of the chaps. Top quality hides are without a doubt worth the investment. Given proper care, they can last years.”
According to Heydinger, traditional chaps for ladies are rough side out with matching yokes, covered or silver conchos, with silver buckles set in the front. Babe Woods of Woods’ 
Western says that, “Most of our women’s chaps are a one concho back until you venture into the world of reining, cow horse, and the newer ranch classes. The men seem to be divided for deciding whether to order a one or two concho back. Both are very acceptable.”
“One concho tends to be the most flattering look (pictured right). If two conchos are used, they are kept as close as possible to make the material lay flatter,” Woods states. Heydinger adds, “There are many options for back conchos, including a variety of shapes and sizes made from different grades of silver, sterling being the best. Conchos can be customized with beaded edges, initials, and engraved patterns. Back options are a single concho back, double concho back (pictured left) with a back belt in between or a buckle set. All chaps have a silver front buckle set.”
Heydinger notes that men’s chaps, and ladies for certain events, are made of top grain leather with the rough side out. “The yoke design can be done in the traditional basket weave or hand tooled into intricate patterns. Filigree designs with a contrasting underlay are becoming more and more popular. The outline of the yoke can be enhanced with silver studding.”
Wood’s Western described the use of chaps for different styles of show tops as well, stating that many women wear a jacket that doesn’t show the top of the chaps. In this case, yoke detail is not necessary since it will be mostly covered (pictured right). Jackets like these are best worn in the western pleasure, trail, and western riding.
On the other hand, men wear more subdued shirts, so yokes with more of a design are a great touch. “Some will keep a monotone color scheme, adding a black, fancy yoke to black chaps while others want contrast. We have also been doing some buck stitching down the legs. It’s amazing what comes back around!” says Woods.
The fringe length and width make a noticeable difference in the appearance of the chaps, Heydinger says. “Too long is distracting, and too short or too wide doesn’t hang properly. It is very important to keep the horsemanship look very trim and sleek, with the least amount of movement possible.”
When deciding on things like chap details, it’s important to keep the elements of the class in mind. If you are showing in western pleasure, trail, or western riding, the focus is not on your body movement as much as in horsemanship – where you are judged on your ability to hold yourself in correct posture, and move quietly with your horse.
Long fringe is a prime example of something that could draw a judge’s eye to your leg, making it appear as if you are moving more than you actually are. Minimizing movement is something that you have control over when designing outfits and that should be taken advantage of. “There has been a fad of people putting rhinestones on the yokes and down their legs,” Valerie states. “This is very distracting and a big ‘no no’ according to judges.”
According to Wood’s Western, the height of chaps at the waist varies with the height of the pants that are popular at the time. “A proper fitting chap will be the same height as your belt in the back and drop a little in the front. For the true horsemanship chaps, the front should be very high to give that neat and smooth look across the front of the pants with the shirt tucked in.”
Heydinger adds, “The length of the chaps should cover the bottom of the heel plus and inch or two when sitting in the saddle. Some people prefer a spur slot in their chaps, which is strictly optional.”
Being an investment, all of these points should be taken into consideration before purchasing a new pair of chaps.
Reining, cow horse classes, and ranch riding exhibitors have their own array of chap designs and style which is explained by Wood’s Western.
“The majority are doing a lot of detail on the yokes, and down the legs,” Babe states. “These are the disciplines that will order smooth out chaps rather than suede out. They almost always have contrasting yokes, bronc patches, the same yoke material on part of the cuff, trim down the leg to match yoke, conchos with or without leather ties holding them on, buck stitching, two-color fringe, and decorative stud designs.”
The changes that are made to chaps go unnoticed most of the time, but companies are always looking to improve the product in material and fit. The best part about chaps- they’re functional.
Dating back to our true cowboy and cowgirl roots, chaps are one of the few things that the show ring adopted, and as Babe Woods said, “Our top seller has always been the black chaps, much like a black dress that you can dress up, or down.”
You can’t go wrong with a pair of well-fitted black chaps, but the same principles apply to all colors and styles.
