According to all of the judges, trainers and exhibitors GoHorseShow has interviewed over the years, the most important fashion must have is a well shaped and quality hat, followed close behind by well fitting clothes and chaps. GoHorseShow talked with two industry experts – Barbara Maitia of Barbara’s Custom Hats in Fort Worth, Texas and Dan Woods of Woods’ Western in San Marcos, California. Barbara explained to us about how to best choose a hat that is right for you and Dan told us the best way to have your chaps compliment your show clothes and get the best fit. Both Barbara and Dan believe you should stand out in the show arena–for the right reasons!
Barbara’s Custom Hats
Current Trends in Hats
Currently we are seeing a shift in style and personal expression when it comes to recent trends. My West Coast Crease has been popular now for several years, and I am asked to shape it “high and tight” mostly for showmanship, horsemanship and western riding. A lower crown is a polished look, but it is not for every shaped head and body style. You have to also make sure your brim size is proportioned to your body shape and you need to have a “finished” look and make sure your hat completes, “The Winning Look.”
When it comes to pleasure and trail, you have the ability to be a bit more expressive in your style and design and it’s fun to watch all the beautiful custom designs lope on down the rail. Nothing beats a classic nicely shaped and clean hat, it’s just elegant. I continue to say it does not have to be expensive as everyone has different budgets that they need to adhere to, but do not skimp on your hat. It completes you. Your nicest hat should be cleaned and shaped regularly, so it maintains the life of your hat.
Tips on Shaping Hat
When shaping a hat, it basically comes down to the boss…your trainer. Most trainers that send their clients to me know that when their customers leave my store, they are ready to walk in and win. As hat shapers, we are all individual and offer a great service but we each have our own special style. It comes down to what looks great on you, your body type and facial shape, as not every popular trend looks great on everyone. I compromise between what is trendy, looks good and listen to what their trainers want. Occasionally, we bump heads but if I can educate and explain why I think a certain color or style looks good, usually we agree on what is best for the customer and everyone is happy. (photo left © American Paint Horse Journal)
Popular Colors and Styles
The colored hats have evolved over the past three years and as much as everyone dug their heels and said no…you have to admit a tastefully done colored or custom colored hat looks amazing–plus it’s different and it’s no secret I like different.
The traditional black is probably the number one seller as it is just classy, but the whiskey and various shades of grey are weighing in as huge contenders. The pecan has gotten lots of attention and it is such a rich deep color and looks good on almost anyone. We still like the white but it’s not for everyone, and, please, if you are wearing a white hat, don’t do the cheap fifty dollar hat. You spend thousands on your outfit, yet the hat completes it, so buy a decent one. As I’ve said over and over, it does not need to be expensive to look great.
Colors or Styles to Avoid
It all depends on a person’s coloring and undertone (skin coloring). I would not recommend an old buckskin on a person who is grey and yellow toned. Same for grey with someone lighter pale skin as it washes them out. You need contrast and the color and shape determine what looks good. A really round face on a large shouldered person should not wear a small brimmed little crowned hat as it does not look proportional and perched upon the top of their head; same to be said on the itty-bitty ladies with a 6″ crown and huge brim and flat shaped. You don’t want frumpy, but you do want clean clear lines that accentuate your face and is proportioned. Your trainer should assist you in the decision making process. Many times you wait last minute and, in haste to get just a hat, you wind up spending double to get the hat you should have gotten to begin with. It’s quite an easy process when you work with a professional.
The X Factor
Most of my competitors might disagree, but I say as long as your hat is clean, fits properly, nicely shaped and looks great on you, then you don’t need to go all out and get a 20x. Now with that said, if money is not a factor, you should lean toward a 10x, 20x, 50x or 100x. They hold their shape, and, in the long run, you will not have to pay the hat shaper $20-$25 each time you see them because the inexpensive version lost its shape. The “x” factor refers to the quality of the hat and how much fur verses felt blend in the hat. For example a 100x means it’s 100% fur, no felt. There is not an industry standard for quality, so it’s important to know your hat maker. The reason I choose Atwood felts is for their quality, durability, and they look great. They are a family owned business that stands behind their craftsmanship and quality.
Limited Budgets
Again, budget is why I carry Atwoods–they make a great quality hat, and I add upgrades and they start at $125. This particular hat comes in four colors: black, chocolate, buckskin and silverbelly. If you can afford $275, that is the hat I recommend. It’s a better quality hat and with proper hat care should last many seasons.
Tips on Sizing Hat
Make sure you have a professional take the time with you to ensure you will get a proper fit. In my case, I measure and fit you, then I make sure you put the hat on so we can make any adjustments as needed. If ordering online, it does become more tricky, but I have been pretty “on it” but nobody is perfect…odd shaped heads sometimes takes a few fittings to get perfect. Also, the shape will make the hat fit properly so with those combinations you are sure to get the best fit.
Cleaning and Caring Tips
If the only thing you can do is brush your hat, that is huge in keeping the dirt, dust and moisture off of your hat and being baked in. Do not store in plastic, use something breathable like a scarf or cotton glove. Plastic sweats in hotter climates and bakes whatever dirt you have on your hat and it creates spots that are difficult to remove. Store your hat in a hat can carrier, adjusted to fit the hat and indoors in a cool dry place, that ensures that the hat will stay dry and moisture will not cause it to mildew.
Dan Woods of Woods’ Western: Chaps
Current Trends in Chaps
The basic classic black chap is still the most popular for our customer, easy to match and to dress up or down. Plain suede yokes with a nice silver engraved front buckle set and covered concho is the perfect horsemanship chap. So many of the women used to swap their horsemanship covered concho for a silver one for a pleasure class, but now that most wear a top that is not tucked in for other than horsemanship, there is no need to change the concho, as it will not be seen.
Best Fitting Chaps
Some of the men prefer the all suede look also with a nice belt set and one or two conchos in the back, while many will chose a timeless tooled yoke, faux gator or faux ostrich yoke. These yokes may match the chap color or be a stylish contrast.
The best fitting chaps will come from the best measurements taken. We always prefer to take the measurements ourselves, but if not convenient, we have tried to provide many helpful instructions on our website. The measure chart on our site is the exact same one we use. We have a video available on our site as well that prepares you and then talks you through the process. Wearing the proper fitting pants that you plan to wear with your new chaps is so very important when the measurements are being taken, follow the chart and double check everything. More that likely, you will still get a call from me to have something rechecked. We have measured for a lot of chaps and know how the chap pattern is made so we have a pretty good idea of what the ratios should be.
Popular Colors
We are stilling making lots of black chaps. There are some great browns that have been the next most popular. With all of the new colors of quality hats, we have used some unique taupes to grey shades also. There have been some striking outfits we have done that blend beautifully with the sorrel horses, matching the chaps more with the horse color, that is a consistent, very soft transition from horse and saddle color to the chap. There are always some fun colors coming through for the youth. It’s great to be that age and have no fear. If you are riding several different horses that vary in color, make sure you choose a color that works well on all. Keeping the chaps at your true waistline is the most flattering for most. If your waistline is not one of your best features, don’t call attention to it with a contrasting color yoke, extra silver or designs on the yoke. This is a good place that the phrase, “less is more” works!
Correct Length
Length is deceiving when you are just standing. When in the saddle, knee bent and heel down, there is quite a bit of extra length that is added to accommodate that. Your heel needs to be completely covered at this point. The area over the instep may have a little extra also. When so many started wearing the larger spur straps, we had to actually drop that part of the chap to cover the straps.
Trends to Avoid
Street wear clothing has gotten about as low at the waist in history. It actually makes our ‘hip hugger’ pants of the 60’s seem quite high. There have been some that have attempted to mimic this with their chaps, most were not successful in making this an attractive picture. The reiner and cow horse riders do generally wear their chaps a little lower, have added contrasting yokes, studs, conchos and two color fringe and pull it all off in a winning way.
Leather vs Ultrasuede
I’ve always been a fan of top grain leather for fit and the way it hangs. This leather is smooth on one side and sueded on the other. Pig suede has been extremely popular for riders that want a light weight chap. I prefer it to ultrasuede because it is leather and has stretch every direction not just around as ultrasuede does. There are colors in ultrasuede that are not available in leathers which sometimes is a deciding factor for some. There are also some breeds which are very excepting of ultrasuede where others are not.
Chaps Back Attachments
The one conch back is still the most flattering for closing the back of the chaps up. Two conchos in the back give a little more of a forgiving fit for those that frequently change waist size in or out a bit. The buckle back seems to go in trends. I do feel the conchos allow for a nicer fit because of the swivel in the Chicago screw.
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<pstyle=”margin: 0.0px=”” 0.0px;=”” font:=”” 13.0px=”” verdana”=””>Cleaning and Caring Tips on Chaps
<pstyle=”margin: 0.0px=”” 0.0px;=”” font:=”” 13.0px=”” verdana”=””>The color of your chaps, regardless of what material and what color, will last longer with a little extra care. Don’t camp out in your chaps all day, put them on as close to your class as convenient and take off soon after. All of that added sun and dust will not help the look of your chaps. We tell clients to keep them folded right sides together with the back concho undone. This will keep more of the elements as well as someone’s soda from getting them. When the back concho is unscrewed, it allows the yoke to lay flat instead of being folded backwards.
A soft brush can be used to get general dust and dirt off. If they get muddy, let them dry and then brush them off. A cloth in similar color as the chaps, can be dampened and used to rub over the chaps also. This will remove some extra dirt as well. This works great for the darker colors but not advised for the lighter colors.
The black re-dye very well; brown and navy can be dyed but the original shade is usually not achieved easily. We have found a suede spray that brings the black back to life when there isn’t time for the whole dying ordeal.
Also, just before you go to get up in the saddle try this–unzip both legs to just above the knee. This allows for your leg not only to bend easier but your chaps will not pull down so badly as you step into the stirrup and swing your leg over. After getting in the saddle, stand in the stirrups, pull the top of your chaps up and tighten the front belt set by one or two holes. Now, your chaps should be back up where they belong, at your waist. Now, zip the legs on down. This has allowed your chaps to not pull down so far and is also keeping the knees from getting as stretched out, not to mention how much easier it is to actually get on!
Additional Info
Barbara’s Custom Hats–The next show I will be at will be the Pinto World in Tulsa, Oklahoma, June 9th-21st. Also, if you are in the Fort Worth area you can stop in and say hello to my new hat guy, Chance and the girls. We have an awesome line up at the store. All of my employees get to design and wear their own custom hat. I like to keep creativity running always in the store. Many of these designs and creations were a group effort and my team all work together to make the newest and greatest hats. Our new store is located in the Stockyards at 140 East Exchange Avenue, Suite 132, Fort Worth Texas 76164. Remember that choosing and purchasing a hat should not be a frustrating venture. Seek out a professional or you can contact me at 530-526-4580 to assist you with any questions you may have. Please visit our website at www.barbarascustomhats.com and you can see our Atwood Hats and custom designs.
Woods’ Western–Woods’ Western will be at the Oregon Summer Classic, June 23-29th. Please contact Dan and Babe Woods at Woods’ Western for more information about their chaps, boots, outfits and a variety of other items available at their store or online at 800-843-7718 or visit their website by clicking here.
