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The Do’s and Don’ts of English Fashion

As human beings, there is an innate need to want to express a sense of individuality, to let others know we are different from the rest, and to show that we are our own person. It’s been studied, it’s been researched, and it’s no secret that one of the main ways we find to express who we are is through our wardrobe.

In the horse show world, while there is always a sense of conformity, exhibitors do their best to showcase their own personal style and personality through what they choose to wear. We wouldn’t have a gazillion different custom clothing companies if this wasn’t the case.

However, unlike western where the fashion is ever changing and each class seems to have their own dress code these days, English fashion has remained steady for say, oh… 400 years or so.

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Of course, there have been some additions (early fox hunters did not wear the modern day helmet) and some changes (women are no longer riding in dresses) but in the last 50+ years it’s pretty safe to say that overall, English fashion has remained virtually unchanged.

But… horse show people like change.  It’s in our blood.  We can’t escape it, especially when it comes to clothes. Who knew a bunch of cowboys and cowgirls were such fashionistas?!

So, while it shouldn’t come as a big surprise that English attire is becoming more fashion-forward, many have also been taken aback by some of the new trends that have entered into the show pen.

GoHorseShow reached out to some of the best equestrian clothing companies and hunter under saddle trainers in the industry to find out their take on what are the fashion do’s and don’ts when it comes to English attire.

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Their answers may or may not surprise you.

DO… Stay Traditional If You Are New to the Game

-12Alyse Roberts (pictured right) of Alyse Roberts Performance Horses in Tuttle, Oklahoma said, “The roots of hunter under saddle go back to Hunter/Jumpers and Fox Hunting… it has stayed the same through hundreds of years, therefore, I prefer the classic look for the hunter under saddle.”

Missy Thyfault of Thyfault Performance Horses in Shelby, Ohio agreed and added, “I personally like dark colored jackets…  I think dark is a more classic choice and the hunt seat is a very traditional class. The dark colors hide a multitude of issues that a light jacket may emphasize.”

Elizabeth “Spike” Brewer of Boo Yah Custom Clothing said, “If customers are new to hunter under saddle, or if they are looking for just a small, basic wardrobe, we recommend going with a traditional black or navy coat and a white shirt.”

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-10What the experts are saying is… if this is new to you, the last thing you want to do is draw attention to yourself.

“I never want to take a chance on my attire taking anything away from my presentation in any way,” said Thyfault, “It is so difficult to come out on top, and I want my attire to enhance my performance and not to distract. I always try to keep that in mind when I’m leaning towards a trend that I am drawn to.”

Roberts pointed out that one of the reasons we are seeing these new trends is because people are tired of looking the same and want to be different and stand out a little more, but concluded by saying, “If you’re drawing that much attention to yourself, you want to make sure your horse is at the top.”

DON’T… Go Overboard Just Because You’ve Done This For A While

-6So let’s say you aren’t new, you’re a clothes hound, and you are loving the new trends like the colored/patterned shirts, piping on jackets, and custom rat catchers.

By all means, explore these new trends and play with them… but don’t get carried away.

“There is never a reason to have bling on a rat catcher,” said Brewer.

Your English attire should be bling free. Save it for the western.

“Crazy prints and really bold, solid colors are not my thing,” added Roberts, “If you have a bold colored shirt make sure there is some sort of pattern to break it up.”

-9“Many articles have been written that most judges prefer a clean, classic approach to hunt seat dress,” said Thyfault, “So, I tend to stay away from anything too wild.”

For example, try to stay away from bright colored piping that completely contrasts your hunt coat and try to choose colors that complement your horse.

“I do actually like the white piping on black coats that are worn on dark horses,” said Roberts.

While this combination is definitely a contrast, black and white is a timeless and classy combination, it’s not yellow or royal blue.

Generally, if you get too trendy, you will lose sight of the idea that English attire is to be both classy and tasteful and your presentation will absolutely miss the mark.

DO…. Always Stay Traditional For the Equitation

-14When it comes to equitation, all the people we interviewed said that it doesn’t matter how old of a veteran you are, your attire needs to stay traditional.

While dark gray or dark brown hunt coats can be acceptable on the rail, black or navy are really the only acceptable colors in equitation.

As for shirts, Brewer said, “If you’re going to do a color in the equitation, you need to stick with soft colors.”

If you want to play it super safe and stick with a white shirt but are looking to have a little bit of fun, the safest way to do it in the Equitation is with your rat catcher.

Roberts suggested, “A diamond design or ribbon around the edges of the rat catcher in a nice soft color on a white shirt is cool.”

DON’T… Ever Sacrifice Fit

-5Sometimes people get so caught up on the details, like the color of their shirt, or the pattern on their rat catcher, that they forget the basics.

Everyone we interviewed said the most important thing when it comes to your attire is how everything fits.

“I personally think the fit is the most important issue,” said Thyfault, “It (the jacket) needs to be fitted and tailored, this can be the difference in your presentation and shows attention to detail.  I personally have always bought jackets off the rack and had them altered as need be.”

-3“It doesn’t matter where you get your coat,” said Brewer, “The biggest thing is having a coat that fits. Make sure it isn’t too short and stay away from the single vented coats from department stores.”

This is such an important concept that you can even view examples of a proper and ill fitting hunt coat on Boo Yah’s website.

Brewer noted that the most common issue for hunt coats off the rack is for the arms to be too bulky or too tight, but a properly fitting hunt shirt will often be an easy fix. (Notice the solution to an ill fitting hunt coat is often a proper fitting shirt… just shows how important fit is.)

DO… Pay Attention to Your Breeches, Too

With the trend focus being so much on hunt coats and shirts these days, don’t forget your pants!

-17Gone are the days of rust breeches, grey breeches, green breeches… basically any color that does not fit on the spectrum of tan or khaki is unacceptable, so if you have any in your closet, throw them out or torch them, depending on your style.

They are not comin’ back!

Ironically, while coats and shirts have evolved into more non-traditional styles and trends, when it comes to breeches, the new trend is to keep it traditional.

“Breeches need to be somewhere in the realm of tan or beige,” said Roberts, “and not too white.”

“I like the breeches to be dark tan or khaki colored,” said Thyfault, “I don’t like the cotton kind because I think they look dirty too easily. I also don’t like them too tight or too baggy.”

One great option for breeches are the Piper Show Side Zip Knee Patch Breeches available at Smartpak.com. (pictured above left)

Rebecca Goss, VP of Western and Business Development at Smartpak said, “They’re comfortable enough to wear all day long at a show and half the price of other popular show breeches on the market at just $79.95/pair.”

Can’t beat that!

DON’T… Wear Hairnets Or Dickies… EVER

Remember those thick hair net buns with the clip and bow on the top?!  You could just do a low ponytail, stick that baby in… and voila!

Yeah… those aren’t really acceptable anymore.

“All your hair needs to be tucked into your helmet,” said Roberts, “no buns and nothing showing.”

english trio“Nothing says poor presentation than wispy hairs hanging out from your helmet,” added Thyfault, “Bobby pins, hair nets and a hard core hair spray are helpful, as well as a second set of eyes. I also think effort should be made into putting on some lipstick and makeup for a finished look. I really dislike dangling earrings or larger hoops.  I think a small hoop or stud is ideal.”

If your hair is so long and so thick that containing it in your helmet is not a viable option, do your hair as if you were showing in showmanship or horsemanship.  Just stay away from fishnet stockings for hair nets.

As for dickies… Brewer said, “A lot of people come to Boo Yah wanting dickies.  We strongly advise against that.”

Why?

One word: summer.

“People don’t think about or realize that dickies really ruin your hunt coat,” said Brewer, “think about all the sweat after just one summer built up in that nice hunt coat you just bought.”

DO… Think About These Other Things, Too

While English attire seems so basic, there really are a lot of elements that are involved.  Our experts shared some other things to think about when planning your outfit.

-15Boots – Thyfault said, “I like a good quality boot made of a good leather.  I really dislike an ill fitting, plasticky boot.  It directly affects your ability to ride well.”

When considering a new pair of boots, SmartPak offers a huge selection of boots that you can check out here.

Goss recommended the Ariat Heritage Contour Field Boot and said, “It is our best-selling boot to the AQHA audience with over 100 reviews and 4.7 star ratings. This boot features traditional styling that English riders love with a beautiful full grain leather upper and a full leather lining. This boot doesn’t just look good, it also feels good.”

Gloves – Roberts said, “Gloves are an absolute must on the ladies, but most men usually don’t wear gloves.  They have to be black no matter the color of your hunt coat.”

-18Helmets – Today, more and more exhibitors are choosing to wear helmets, and it is also mandatory for all youth riders. Goss said, “Helmets are very much a matter of personal preference based on styling and comfort, which is why we carry a wide variety of brands to choose from including Samshield, Charles Owen, GPA, One K, Troxel and Tipperary. For the show ring, Samshield and GPA continue to be popular brands of ASTM/SEI approved helmets, particularly for the over fences classes and for youth riders for whom the harness is required.”

-16Spurs – Another popular trend we are seeing is black powder-coated spurs (pictured left).  All the experts we spoke with said this is a trend they can get on board with.

Goss said, “We continue to see Black Powder Coated Spurs be the popular option for the show ring as they provide a clean look that blends in with the boot and minimizes the appearance of leg movement.  Our Black Powder Coated Spurs have a matte finish, a 1” neck and are just $22.95 for the pair.”

Tack – The experts we spoke with said light colored bridles are a no-no even if your saddle and/or the horse is a lighter color.

Thyfault also said in regards to bridles, “I like chains to be cut to fit ideally on bits.  I really dislike when people leave keepers on show reins.”

Roberts also added, “No breast collars.”

***

If you follow what our experts have recommended here, you are sure to end up on the “Best Dressed” list of the horse show fashion world!

 

Photos © Boo Yah Custom Clothing and SmartPak

About the Author: A Tucson, Arizona native Chenay Jordan-McDowell started riding Pony Hunters at six years old until she found a passion for Paint horses in 1993. In 2000, Chenay stopped showing to focus on scholastics. She went on to graduate from the University of Arizona in 2006 with a dual Bachelor of Arts in English and Creative Writing. Today, she lives in Yucaipa, California with her husband, son, and eight animals, including a rescued APHA mare. Between being a wife and mother, she teaches English as a foreign language and is a freelance writer.
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